I use wire nuts, after they are on stick the little straw from the spray can in and give them a shot, it capillaries in to the wire, I orient the nuts up, spray the inside of the box and threads on screws on connectors and covers. Over the years have come up with variations but usually put a box over the studs on the fixtures, which keeps grime off. Wire nuts dilled with silicone work in exposed conditions but I like running the pipe into boxes and thru common cable connectors which allows wire ri be pushed. You can puncture it with an awl and insert a wire, even small cord and it closes around it. I have also rewired my 3 tractors with same ideas, there are a few exposed ring terminals and I'm only 2 years into it but all is working much better than before. That one is typically exposed and all of the others rely on it in a negative-chassis ground system. I think a good coating of pure silicone caulk or dielectric grease would also be good. ![]() Last is to give the wire harness additional chafe resistance, I like the split black conduit, I typically buy the higher-temp version at McMaster Carr but there might be a better source.Īny ground wire I use a thru bolt, stainless steel star-washers and slather with Jet Lube SS-30 pure copper anti-seize. I used this on my pickup truck's underbody trailer harness in 2004 and while I try to avoid all salt it has seen plenty of rain and I have not ever touched it since. I use THHN wire as its more expensive than any "automotive" PVC jacketed wiring. Panduit makes some butt splices with a BSH- part number that aren't cheap but fit the bill. ![]() It can't just be the black tube because that just leaks. Everything should be gasketed OR heat-shrinked, but the heat-shrink tube MUST CONTAIN GLUE inside of it. The GM-Delcotronics versions are out there. Imo if you want to build vehicle-quality wiring you need weather-packed connectors.
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